Dogs & Kids: Happy Together

Dogs and kids, it''s a combination that at it''s best can be the stuff of childhood dreams. At it''s worst, it can be a source of heartache and pain and even injury. How can you ensure that your child and Man''s Best Friend have a loving and safe relationship? Mostly, it''s the responsibility of the adults of the house to teach toddlers and even older children that a dog is not a toy. It''s a living, breathing creature that feels pain, shame and humiliation as much as love, pride and happiness. A dog that bites a child may only be defending itself the only way it knows how. But to minimize ever having to worry about a parent''s worst nightmare, family animal psychologist, Larry Lachman, M.S., offers the following advice:

SAFETY PREVENTION TIPS TO TEACH YOUR CHILD:

• Do NOT reach for a dog''s head the first time they meet a dog nor excessively rough house around their own dog''s head and face.

• Do NOT look a dog straight in the eyes, which could be seen as a threat or challenge by the dog.

• Do NOT run up frantically to a dog, which may react fearfully and defend itself or jump and bite at the child''s face.

• Do NOT scream loudly at a dog, which could stress a dog or startle it, causing an aggressive response.

• Do NOT bother the dog while it is eating or chewing on a chew toy, which could trigger an aggressive guarding response, especially if the child is under seven years of age, where he/she is looked at by the dog as a competing animal in the pack.

• Do NOT hit, kick, slap, ride, or tease the dog in any manner.

• Do NOT leave the child and dog alone until the child is older than 7, and can control its impulses.

Adults Should Take The Time...

• To show the child HOW TO POSITIVELY interact and pet the dog under direct supervision.

• To show the child how to be a junior dog trainer, and get the dog to sit with a treat, under parental supervision.

• To only give the dog attention when the child is also receiving attention so the dog makes a better association with the child.

Following these tips will minimize conflict and teach your child to respect your dog and treat her as a member of the family.

About The Author

Gene R. Sower
Lucy The Wonder Dog, LLC
"For The Health & Wellness Of Your Dog"
http://www.lucythewonderdog.com

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Why Does My Cat Drink Dirty Water?

You know that cats should always have a supply of water, especially if you are feeding them dried food. There on your nice clean kitchen floor is a bowl of nice clean fresh water, in a nice clean bowl.

What does your cat do? Maybe gives the bowl a sniff and walks away from it, or just ignores the bowl completely, as if water were the last thing a self respecting cat would consider drinking.

"Okay", you think to yourself, "Kitty just isn''t thirsty at the moment". But then later, you happen to spy your cat busily lapping up stale water from a puddle in your garden as if it was nectar.

Cats are self-reliant, independent creatures, but surely your cat is not going to turn its nose up at the nice clean water you provide, just to let you know it can survive without you? After all, kitty does not reject the food you provide even though it is perfectly capable of catching mice.

No, the answer is not your mouser''s independence. Tap water is usually treated with chemicals, often chlorinated strongly enough for a cat to smell it. Cats noses are far more sensitive than human noses and many cats find this chemical odor very offensive. Stale water in puddles and pools has a far more attractive smell are far as a cat is concerned. Puddles may be full of rotten vegetation and microbes, but cats find this organic soup very tasty.

As well as the off-putting odor of chemicals in tap water, cats find the smell of detergents repugnant. So, because you diligently clean your cat''s water bowl in the interest of hygiene, the detergent that you use deters your cat from drinking from it. You use the same detergent to wash your cat''s food bowl, why then, does your feline friend eat heartily from the bowl, and not be repelled by the smell of the detergent? This is because the aroma of the fish or meat is stronger than the smell of the detergent.

With the water bowl, the combination of the two unpleasant smells, the chemicals in the tap water and the detergent, means that your cat will only quench its thirst from the water bowl if there is no better smelling option to be had.

So, what can you do? You need to rinse your cat''s bowl more thoroughly than you would a plate for a human. Remember feline noses are far more sensitive than ours, every trace of detergent needs to be rinsed off. Secondly, let the water from the tap stand for a while before putting the bowl down for your cat, this will allow the chemicals to dissipate.

These two things should have kitty drinking happily from the dish, unless, of course, kitty has got so used to drinking from puddles it just can''t kick the organic water habit!

About The Author

Larry Chamberlain

If you have a pet related web site and you wish to reproduce the above article you are welcome to do so, provided the article is reproduced in its entirety, including this resource box and live link to http://www.best-cat-art.com.

Cat art posters, art prints, cat calendars and cat collectibles. Great cat gifts for yourself or your cat loving friends.', 196, 'Why Does My Cat Drink Dirty Water?, Pets, Pets articles, Pets information, about Pets, what is Pets, Pet Information', 'Why Does My Cat Drink Dirty Water? plus articles and information on Pets

Need a Low-Maintenance Pet? Try a Tarantula!

If you''re like me, then you don''t really have the luxury of keeping a high-maintenance pet such as a dog. Even a less demanding pet such as a cat might be beyond your time constraints. Fish tanks can be difficult too, since it''s easy to under-estimate the time and effort involved in keeping them clean. So what options do you have?

Well, you could try a snake or one of the hardier lizard varieties. My personal favorites, however, are tarantulas. That''s right-those big, hairy, eight-legged freaks.

Contrary to popular belief, tarantulas are really not deadly; in fact, there are no known instances of anyone dying from a tarantula bite. In addition, most of the pet store specimens that you''ll encounter are exceedingly docile, and will generally not bite unless they are severely provoked.

The most common variety available is the Chilean rose hair tarantula (Grammastola rosea), which is notoriously gentle and easy to handle. It is also known to have fairly mild venom, and almost never bites. Other docile and readily available species include the Honduran curly hair tarantula (Brachypelma albopilosum) and the Guyana pinktoe tarantula (Avicularia avicularia).

Unlike a dog or a cat, these animals do not require much care. They can go for weeks without food or water, although regular care is still recommended. They do not generate much waste either, and so cleaning their cages is easy as well. Some species do have rather specific humidity requirements, but the most common pet store varieties are not so demanding. They also require very little space, and most of them can be kept in plastic shoebox-sized containers. Make sure that their lids fit tightly though, since these animals can be quite good at escaping.

I do recommend reading up on tarantula care, so as to learn the proper care requirements for the specimen that you choose. Be aware that some species can be quite aggressive, and are not recommended for beginners. These species are less commonly available though, and are generally obtained via mail order. If in doubt, start with a Chilean rose hair, as this is an excellent beginner species.

Owners should be aware that even within docile species, there can be some individuals that are more aggressive than others. In addition, there is always the possibility of an allergic reaction if you are bitten. In theory, this could result in a potentially fatal anaphylactic shock, although I am not aware of any circumstances in which this has actually happened. For these reasons, new owners should learn how to read a tarantula''s body language, and should stay away from species that have a reputation for biting without provocation.

Also, do remember that you never have to actually hold the tarantulas-just as you never have to actually hold your aquarium fish. I recommend reading up on handling techniques, so that you can move the animals around without having to touch them. This can be helpful for those who are squeamish, or who simply wish to be cautious. When in doubt, err on the side of safety.

If you''re not intimidated by the prospect of keeping one of these wondrous creatures, then I recommend them highly. They can be quite addictive, and they never fail to entertain.

About The Author

V. Berba Velasco Jr., Ph.D. is a senior electrical and software engineer at Cellular Technology Ltd (http://www.immunospot.com, http://www.elispot-analyzers.de, http://www.elispot.cn). The neighborhood children have referred to him as the "Crocodile Hunter" though, due to his impressive menagerie of magnificent arachnids.', 196, 'Need a Low-Maintenance Pet? Try a Tarantula!, Pets, Pets articles, Pets information, about Pets, what is Pets, Pet Information', 'Need a Low-Maintenance Pet? Try a Tarantula! plus articles and information on Pets

Introduction To House Training

INSERT INTO pqdb_articles (article_id, article_title, article_text, article_cat, article_meta_key, article_meta_desc) VALUES (31597, '', 'The information in this article is based on the successful crate training method. Crate training is not cruel. I repeat: Crate training is not cruel. If used correctly, it uses the dog''s natural den instinct to your own advantage by encouraging the dog not to pee or poop where it sleeps. Dogs are naturally clean animals and will avoid going to the bathroom where they sleep. But you need to keep the following points in mind to be successful.

Establish A Regular Eating Routine

As I''m fond of saying, ''what goes in must come out''. To help you figure out the best times to get your dog to go to the bathroom it''s important to feed your dog at the same times every day. This is the ideal time to practice your house training lessons. For your dog''s comfort it''s also a good idea to feed your dog in the same place every day, a place that they will identify as their eating spot. With your puppy, there''s a very short time between eating and eliminating. Figure around 15 - 20 minutes. When feeding your dog, give her 15-20 minutes and then pick up the uneaten portion (if any). This will also teach your dog to eat when fed. Again, these rules can be relaxed once your dog is house trained but for now it''s key to establish a routine.

Until your dog is house trained, also avoid treats and in-between meal snacks. The whole idea is to feed your dog, observe them constantly for the 15 -20 minutes after they eat and then bring them to the place where you want them to do their business. Do it like clockwork and you''ll be putting your puppy in a position to succeed. This is all about setting expectations and teaching your eager learner to do what you want. And when they do, praise them wildly. Make it seem like that little pee or poop that they did is the greatest and most magnificent thing you''ve ever seen in your entire life. Your friends and neighbors may think you''re crazy, but I can''t stress enough the power of praise. It''s what your puppy craves. Give it to her in generous amounts.

How Old Should Your Puppy Be?

How old should your puppy be before you begin house training? Start as early as you can but don''t expect results until the pup is about 14 weeks old. Before 14 weeks your pup cannot physically hold it in. Then why start early you may ask? Well, even though your pup may not be physically able to hold it in, she''ll at least begin learning what''s expected of her. Consider any training before 14 weeks to be ''pre-school''. When her physical abilities catch up with what you taught her, it will make it that much easier to put the lessons into practice.

Size Matters

If you''re considering crate training your dog as a means of house training, keep in mind that the size of crate you choose is very important. A good rule of thumb about size is: the crate should only be big enough for the dog to comfortably stand up and turn around in. You don''t want the crate so big that the dog will mess at one end and sleep at the other. For large-sized breeds that will continue to grow substantially, you may need to buy a larger size later on if you intend for your dog to continue using the crate after it is house trained. And the most important rule of all: NEVER, under any circumstances, use the crate as a form of punishment. The crate should be a place where your dog wants to go, to sleep and get away from the bustle and activity in your home. You never want them to associate it with being punished.

Happy House Training!

About The Author

copyright © Gene Sower

Gene Sower is the author of the Happy House Training ebook: ''Learn To House Train Your Dog Easily & Effectively''; http://www.lucythewonderdog.com/ebook.htm', 196, 'Introduction To House Training, Pets, Pets articles, Pets information, about Pets, what is Pets, Pet Information', 'Introduction To House Training plus articles and information on Pets

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

Let''s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations ? each dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage 2-3 Weeks

The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it''s during this time that your puppy''s eyes will open, and he''ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He''ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He''ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage 3-4 Weeks

The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he''ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It''s best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period ? negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it''s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage 4-7 Weeks

From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life ? he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.

He''ll also learn discipline at this point ? Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week ? transition gradually as Mom weans them. Continue handling the pups daily, but don''t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development. Experts say that the best time in a puppy''s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age ? that''s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It''s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this period as possible. Don''t discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing ? that''s all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The "I''m Afraid of Everything" Stage 8 Weeks to 3 Months

The "I''m Afraid of Everything" Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a "fearful period" that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they''ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events. At this time your puppy''s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he''s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It''s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he''ll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage 3 Months to 4 Months

The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it''s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He''ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he''s only recently learned ? just like a child does when they''re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in "I don''t have to listen to you!" Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what''s required here. He might start biting you ? play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp "No!" or "No bite!" command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem. Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don''t play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance ? especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy''s strength grows, he''s going to want to play-fight to see who''s stronger ? even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it''s ok to fight with you. And that''s not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage 4-6 Months

The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it''s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you ? expect to see more "testing the limits" type of behaviors. He''ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new "dominance" over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you''re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog''s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result ? so don''t take the chance.

He''ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven''t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage 6-18 Months

The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog''s life - he''s young, he''s exuberant, he''s full of beans ? and yet he''s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time ? just because he''s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he''s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that''s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals ? allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You''ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you''ve raised a kid, doesn''t it?

Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!" To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit: http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj', 196, 'The 7 Stages of Puppy Development, Pets, Pets articles, Pets information, about Pets, what is Pets, Pet Information', 'The 7 Stages of Puppy Development plus articles and information on Pets

Mosquitoes Are a Hazard to Your Pets Health Too

None of us likes to be bitten by mosquitoes and sometimes it is easy to forget that our pets suffer from mosquito bites too.

Mosquitoes feed on blood, and they will take it where they can find it. Only the female bites, the males feed on plant nectar. While the female may have preferred hosts, she must have protein from blood to produce eggs. And, one blood meal is often not enough to produce a clutch of eggs. Often the female will feed, rest to digest the meal and feed again up to three times before she can get enough protein to produce her eggs.

So, each time your pet is outside in mosquito territory, it is a sitting target for a hungry female mosquito that is eager to reproduce.

Many species of mosquitoes will choose birds over humans or pets, but they have even been known to feed on frogs and other reptiles, if that is what they can find for a blood meal.

Most responsible pet owners know of the hazards from mosquito bites associated with heartworm disease in cats and dogs. Mosquitoes carry parasite larvae, which they transmit to your pet once they bite. The parasite larvae then migrate to the heart and major circulatory organs in your pet, where it develops into an adult worm that can reach ten inches in length.

The problem with heartworms is that they can take many years to develop into an adult that can cause symptoms in your cat or dog. Dogs are usually more at risk than cats, simply because they are usually outdoors more often. By the time the symptoms develop, treatment is long and difficult. Sometimes the pet owner is unaware of the problem until the animal simply dies during exertion, a tragic ending that is very preventable.

Protection against heartworms is as easy as a trip to your veterinarian. Many effective medicines, which are given orally, can prevent development of the larvae, if an infected mosquito bites your pet. The biggest failure of these medicines is pet owner default. They must be administered faithfully once per month with no lapse in treatment. And, just because it seems like mosquito season is at bay, don''t lapse and forget to give your pet its dose. Many mosquitoes over-winter in protected places and they arouse ready to bite long before you might expect them.

Luckily, it is now possible to get a shot for your pet that will afford protection against heartworms for up to six months. Even diligent and caring pet owners can sometimes forget about the narrow window of opportunity for administering the oral medication. This new advancement spares you and your pet the risky aftermath of those lapses.

Now, pet owners have an even greater concern about mosquito bites to their pets. While rare, West Nile virus has been reported in both dogs and cats. There are very few reported cases of pet fatalities in dogs and cats, but the risk still exists. Instead, most of the time, the animal may test positive for the virus, without having symptoms.

If your pet has West Nile virus, it may have the following symptoms: fever, depression or lethargy, muscle weakness or spasms, impaired coordination, seizures or paralysis. If your pet has these symptoms, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Bird and horse owners should be much more concerned. West Nile virus is primarily fatal to many bird species. Crows, for example, are very susceptible to fatal cases. Sparrows, on the other hand, easily contract it, but have no symptoms. And, migratory birds like sparrows help to continue the spread of the virus because they are highly mobile.

Of those birds that are kept as pets, parrots, cockateels and parakeets are most at risk. The risk factor is lower because they are seldom outside. If your home is well sealed and has good screens, these pets should be easily protected, if kept indoors.

Horse owners are now able to protect their horses with a very effective vaccine. Horses are particularly susceptible to mosquito borne viruses, and it is difficult to keep them away from outdoor exposure, even in barns and stalls. No such vaccine exists for smaller animals.

The same thing that protects you against mosquito diseases also protect your pets. Prevention!

Keep your home and yard mosquito free by being sure that mosquitoes don''t have places to breed. Avoid allowing any water to stand in containers, like buckets, birdbaths, pet bowls, gutters, storm drains, and plant saucers. Many mosquitoes need only ¼ cup of water to breed.

The FDA has traditionally advised keeping your pet indoors around dawn and dusk, because that is when many mosquito species feed. That advice is no longer enough to protect your pet. The Asian tiger mosquito is an aggressive day biter. It was imported to the United States in 1985 and is now found in 30 states. It carries both West Nile virus and heartworm parasites.

Instead, get rid of any possible breeding sites and also get a good pet insect repellant. Mosquito repellants made for humans are not to be used on pets. Never put any repellant on pets that is not DEET free. Instead get a repellant that is made for veterinary use and apply only according to directions. With your pets, you have to assume they may lick treated areas and you can''t afford to take a chance that the repellant may be toxic to them.

For example, tea tree oil is a good natural mosquito repellent for humans, but it has proved fatal to some cats that have licked it off of their fur.

And, consider getting a propane powered mosquito trap to reduce mosquito populations in your yard. They are very effective, although expensive, but actually kill hundreds of mosquitoes if used according to the manufacturers directions. Over time these devices can actually decrease mosquito populations.

Mosquitoes are here to stay. Our best defense for our pets is to know how to avoid them, and how to keep our pets safe using the latest scientific advances. And, many of the things we do to protect our pets from mosquito borne diseases are good for us too.

About The Author

Scottie Johnson is a life long mosquito warrior, free lance author and dog lover. For more information about having a mosquito free life, visit her site at http://www.mosquito-kill-net.com; info@www.mosquito-kill-net.com', 196, 'Mosquitoes Are a Hazard to Your Pets Health Too, Pets, Pets articles, Pets information, about Pets, what is Pets, Pet Information', 'Mosquitoes Are a Hazard to Your Pets Health Too plus articles and information on Pets